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Writer's pictureMike Kearney

Cornwall 14-16th October 2022

October saw the second trip of the year to Bosigran in Cornwall.

First off, what is this crag even called? A long running schism in the Avon Mountaineering Club pitches two rival pronunciations against each other. We’ll let the dulcet tones of “Amy” from IPA-reader elucidate the difference:

[bɵˈzigrən]

[boziˈgran]

Perhaps a motion at the AGM is needed to settle this once and for all?

Friday

Me and Gwenver of team [bɵˈzigrən] travelled down a day early and climbed Doorpost as a three with her dad Sam. According to Gwenver, my method of bridging smoothly from the left crack to the right crack at the crux received a remark of “well I’ve never seen anyone do it like that before” from Sam: my advice for anyone wanting to try this method is to simply be 6’7”.


Conor-Gwenver-and-her-dad-Sam-on-Doorpost-2



The-coastline

Arrivals trickled in throughout the evening to the accommodation at The Counthouse, a 5 minute walk from the crag. Despite some folks allegedly missing the camping at St Just Rugby Club, no one took the option of camping in the garden, probably because it was no longer May but in fact October.


The-crew-at-The-Counthouse

Saturday

Given that we’re not all climbers Julian and Anne took full advantage of the brilliant coastline around Bosigran with a walk taking in Zennor and St Ives. Julian’s remark of “lunch was the best bit” spoke highly of the culinary excellence the coast path has to offer.


Julian-and-some-ponies



The-moody-sea

With the arrival of the main group and the [boziˈgran] / [bɵˈzigrən] balance restored, Saturday saw us take it back to the 50s with non-stop classics. Me and Gwenver climbed the ledges of Ledge Climb and Vianney and Luke climbed the rib of Alison Rib. Andrew climbed Victor and Richard, or possibly the other way around. Luke topped out Big Top with Big Matt, while on Little Brown Jug I grabbed the medium sized jug, and later, the big ones.

Luke and Simon also made a great ascent of Doorpost but I don’t have a pun for that. Also note there were two Lukes on this trip but unfortunately I haven’t written down who did what. Answers on a postcard.


Phil-from-the-belay-of-Ledge-Climb



Gwenver-belaying-with-sport-slack-Conor-is-on-toprope



Simon-chilling-at-a-belay



Richard-at-the-top-of-Big-Top



Matt-completing-his-Duke-of-Edinburgh



Luke-from-the-top-of-Little-Brown-Jug



Luke-on-Big-Top

On the subject of Little Brown Jug: jheeeze what a climb. I’ve been to Bosigran before but not since VS has been within my reach and everything came together on ‘that’ final pitch. At the crux I opted to pull up on a finger-jam past the broken peg, a technique I didn’t know existed a year ago on gear I wouldn’t have known to trust. Later I was suddenly in the full exposure of the Atlantic wind, slings flying around my neck and my hood clattering away: I was weirdly reminded of the flag at the Tobacco Factory. Topping out I actually almost cried as all the emotion I had suppressed for the last 15 minutes rushed up at me.


Conor-and-Gwenver-on-P1-of-Little-Brown-Jug-1

I wasn’t the only one chopping onions as that evening many hands made light work preparing the curry for dinner. Simon produced a sack of Jenga bricks (at least 3 full sets) and we also played maybe the most trivial trivia game ever published. Did you know the Titanic was a ship? Wow!


Simon-Luke-Vianney-and-Anne-play-big-Jenja

Sunday

Sunday saw an assault on Commando RIdge with Luke Parker and Simon moving together roped up and Luke Haskett opting to solo. Quick work too before the rain, it would have taken me and Gwenver a whole day!

Lots more climbing got done too including Myself, Matt and Gwenver on a link-up of Anvil Chorus P1/2 and Venusberg P3/4, and a trip up Ledge Climb for Victor and Richard. There was also another walk from Julian and Anne, this time exploring the slopes of Little Galva looking for bronze age ‘beehive’ huts.

After all the excitement, by the time Matt was dragging me up Nameless with the rain threatening I was pretty done in the head and ready to go home, but it wasn’t long before I was wishing I was back again.


Bosigran-2


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