Matterhorn Madness!

Pano on the summit of the Matterhorn

A group of us had set our sights on climbing the Matterhorn this year, an idea sparked after completing the Royal Traverse and summiting Mont Blanc. As plans evolved, only Rich and I remained, undeterred and ready to take on the Italian route via the Lion’s Ridge. Slightly harder than the Swiss side and less crowded, it offered a more adventurous experience. We flew into Milan and drove to Cervinia, staying at Camping Glair, a peaceful site nestled beside a beautiful lake.

Campsite lake

Our goal was acclimatisation, but excitement got the better of us. On day one, we went straight for the Breithorn (4,160m) via the normal route, a snow walk, but still a big jump from Bristol to high altitude. We skipped the pricey lift to the Kleine Matterhorn and slogged up from Plateau Rosa. Feeling the altitude, we turned back just shy of the summit, accepting it as a warm-up. That evening, we stayed at the Theodule Hut, which had a stunning view of the Matterhorn making it a perfect spot to relax and reflect.

The next day, we attempted Pollux’s south-west face but quickly realized we were pushing too hard. The ski piste felt tougher, and we made the wise decision to descend and rest. I was also battling sore feet which was unusual for me (more on that later). After a night back at the campsite, we returned refreshed and made short work of the ski piste. Being August we moved carefully as the crevasses were opening up all around us and the snow bridges were thin. Something I found first hand when I punched through one up to my waist, a good reminder of why we rope up! Pollux (4,092m) was a satisfying scramble with chains on the steeper section leading to the top. We finally felt like we were finding our rhythm.

We spent a night at the Val d’Ayas Hut, politely declining an offer from an American climber with no alpine experience who was “looking for some crazy Brits.” to take him out. The next day, we tackled the Breithorn Traverse — a stunning 4,000m+ ridgeline that ends on the Breithorn summit, offering redemption for our earlier attempt.

Back in the valley, stormy weather and dropping temperatures cast doubt on our Matterhorn plans. We kept busy visiting a Roman bridge, a waterfall and maintaining gear which is when I discovered I’d left my insoles at the Theodule Hut and spent 3 days hiking and climbing without them! Mystery of the aching feet solved.

With the weather clearing but fresh snow (40–50cm) on the Matterhorn, we headed to Staffal to climb Pyramide Vincent (4,215m). The South-Southwest Ridge was a mix of snow and rock, a perfect test piece. At the summit, we finally relaxed, laughed, and took photos.

Now came the decision point to Matterhorn or not to Matterhorn? Our concern was the recent snow had left enough ice to make an accent too risky and after obsessively checking the weather forecast, worrying about acclimatisation and debating conditions we decided to go for it!

Whilst the summit can be done it one day most people stay at the Carrell hut which was closed for renovations. Fortunately, the winter room was open for anyone willing to carry food, water and sleeping bags up there. Getting there was no small feat: scree scrambling, climbing, and chains. On the way we met several retreating parties, most turned back due to icy conditions. With only one summiting that day. We got to the hut first chose the best sleeping spot and were joined by 9 others through the evening.

We agreed to attempt the summit, knowing full well we might have to turn back at Pic Tyndall if conditions proved too risky. The morning began with a series of chains and cables, including one affectionately known as the “Wake-Up Chain”. We tackled these without much trouble, but soon a queue began to form behind a party that was clearly struggling with the terrain. I leaned over to Rich and said, “We need to get ahead of them, quickly.” He nodded in agreement. At the base of the climb to Pic Tyndall, we swiftly strapped on our crampons and, in a rather un-British fashion, surged to the front of the queue, overtaking the slower group. From that point on, we made excellent time. We navigated the Enjambee (the step across), tackled an icy pitch (think Scottish winter), and powered through the final series of chains and ladders leading to the summit!

At the summit, we paused to soak in the view and share a well-earned snack. But the climb wasn’t over, we still had to reverse the entire route. Knowing the descent would take longer than the ascent, we mentally prepared for the abseils and downclimbs ahead. After 16 hours on the move, we finally reached the valley floor and arrived at the Abruzzi Hut around 21:30. The ski lifts had long since closed, and the prospect of a 2–3 hour walk back to the car wasn’t appealing. Unfortunately, the hut was full and we were told we’d have to bivvy outside. Fortunately, they still served us a three-course meal, luxury after a long day.

Looking back, bivvying beneath the mountain we’d spent the entire week fixated on felt like the perfect way to end the trip.