AMC Newtonmore 2026 Trip Report

People will tell you to bring your waterproofs for winter climbing in Scotland, but we saw no need! Beyond the odd drizzle or spindrift shower, AMC members enjoyed a week in the Scottish sun, with temps just below freezing on the summits and a mostly stable snowpack, conditions were looking friendly!! Staying in the Craigelachie cottage in Newtonmore we had members with a range of Scottish winter experience, from first season ever to 20th+. Below are some photos and stories from the trip, along with some unofficial trip awards (decided by me).

Saturday February 28th - Day minus 1

Chris C & Chris H took a look at the forecast and decided it was worth driving up early. Leaving Bristol at 2pm on Friday, we put up a tent in the North face car park at 1.30am, then got woken up at 4am by the first pilgrims starting their journey into the mountains. Chris C lead Green Gully (IV, 4) which couldn't quite take screws but our axes sank perfectly into firm Neve. On the way up I boshed myself in the face with the hammer of my axe and only realised when I started getting worried looks from Chris C. 2 pitches from the top, a helmet came bouncing down the gully, which I plucked out of the air and carried to the summit looking for it's owner (I'm just glad it didn't have a head in it).

Chris H styling out a self-inflicted axe wound to the face, scaring walkers on the summit. Credit: Chris C

Chris H battling spindrift on the way up Green Gully (IV), Ben Nevis. Credit: Chris C

Sunday 1st March - Day zero

Too windy at Snecchy, so Me & Chris C went for a walk around Loch Morlich, where we saw evidence of the newly introduced Beavers!

Chris C having a 'wee look' and bravely walking away. Credit: Chris H

Beavers been here. Credit: Chris H

Monday 2nd March

Slightly melty conditions, turf frozen but only just - Chris C led Sanders & Chris H up Hidden Chimney direct (IV, 5), then Hidden Chimney (III), while Bronwen & Raf headed for Jacob's Edge (II). Both teams felt their routes were a lot spicier than expected, mainly because we had all taken the wrong line (I blame all the dark rock having no resemblence to the rimed up topo on Rockfax). We had in fact done the top half of Yukon Jack (IV, 5) whilst Bronwen & Raf were on Hidden Chimney (III), her first winter grade III! Anthony & Greg carved their way up Fiacaill Couloir (II) (Greg's first ice pitch & first winter lead)

Sanders hacking his way up Hidden Chimney Direct (memories of Hanham drytooling helping him through). Credit: Chris H

Chris H belaying Sanders up the snowslope final pitch atop Coire an t-Schneada. Credit: Chris C

Bronwen climbing in great light. Credit: Raf

⭐TRIP AWARD - Best teamwork: Bronwen & Raf - When one of their team tripped and hurt their ankle, Bronwen & Raf sprang into action by down climbing the snowslope, chopping steps to help the injured member out of the coire, then returning to crush another route!

Tuesday 3rd - Ledge route party

Anthony, Greg, Miguel, Chris, Bronwen, Sanders & Ed all sent Ledge Route (II) on the North face of Ben Nevis through a mixture of pitching, moving together and scrambling. An epic route with a great variety of terrains, the patches of blue sky and minimal wind on the summit gave the day an Alpine feel. This was a few people’s highlight of the trip: sociable, great weather, great views - tick, tick, tick. Chris C & Raf climbed Comb Gully (IV, 4).

Chris C on Comb Gully. Credit: Raf

Miguel on Ledge route. Credit: Chris H

Greg enjoying his first time on the Ben! Credit: Greg

⭐TRIP AWARD - Best French guide aesthetic: Miguel (Smoking is bad for you). His favourite moment was moving together with Chris H & Bronwen on Fiacaill Rib (II)

Wednesday 4th - Loch an Eileen

Most of us were shattered after a big day on the Ben, so decided to have a low-level walk around Loch an Eileen & Drake's bothy. Anthony & Greg saw no need for a rest day and climbed Hidden Chimney (III)

⭐TRIP AWARD - Most Munros almost bagged: Julian & Ann - Several rounded tops without trig points were bagged on this trip! While they aren’t keeping count, Ann did her first Munro 63 years ago! Julian started climbing in his 50s, fair dos.

⭐TRIP AWARD - Hardnut: Abi - Did a 10k hike the day after fracturing her ankle, not to be encouraged but undoubtedly hard as nails. Her highlight was making new friends and we all wish her a speedy recovery back to climbing soon.

Thursday 5th - Winter in Aonach Mor, Summer on Fiacaill Ridge

Chris & Ed went to Aonoch Mor to get caked in hoarfrost for a full on Scottish winter experience up The White Shark (IV, 4), taking a break from the snow in the ski lift operators cabin. Miguel & Chris practiced moving together on Fiacaill Rib (II) to gain Fiacaill Ridge (II), Sanders, Bronwen & Raf did Fiacall Ridge (II) - which was practically in summer scrambling condition. Anthony & Greg took a rest day to practice their micronav.

Raf & Sanders on Fiacaill Ridge. Credit: Bronwen

Ed on The White Shark

Lunch in the Aonach Mor ski lift operator's cabin to get out of the wind. Credit: Chris C

https://video.wixstatic.com/video/19810a_30a0bc7cb0364a55ac8c7db3d13a8d9e/1080p/mp4/file.mp4

⭐TRIP AWARD - Most heavily snow-encrusted climber: Ed, Loved seeing the video of him swimming through the top-out of The White Shark.

⭐TRIP AWARD - Most unexpected piece winter climbing equipment: Raf, who inexplicably brought an accordion and serenaded us with it at the hostel

⭐TRIP AWARD - Most firsts: Greg, Greg's first ice pitch, first winter lead, first time 'moving together', first time on the Ben and first winter grade 3! Greg's highlight was the satisfaction of successful micronav to an obscure point on the map.

Friday 6th - Big day on the Ben

All forecasts pointed to it being a memorable day for everyone, and so it was! Chris C & Sanders (Two-thirds of Airbus Mountaineering Club) got up at 3am to try and get to the front of the queue at Point Five Gully (V,5) - the hardest send of the trip. Raf & friends did The White Line (IV, 4), Anthony & Greg did Glover's Chimney (III, 4) (and got stuck in traffic at tower gap). Bronwen & Chris did No.2 Gully (II). No.2 Gully was a beautiful route, surrounded by ice chandeliers and sheer rock walls on all sides, but got interesting when at least 6 other teams had the same idea, picture 4 sets of half ropes weaving across each other, dropped ice axes, multiple belayers shouting 'you’re on belay Chris' (to different Chris’), lots of overtaking and general carnage. Everyone enjoyed a stunning walk-off in the sunset.

Those getting to the North face car park for 5am were gifted with a resplendent pre-dawn Ben Nevis. Credit: Chris C

No.2 Gully. Credit: Chris H

Bronwen overtaking a grumpy team on No.2 Gully. Credit: Chris H

Raf enjoying The White Line. Credit: Raf

This guy had reached the end of his rope and was worried his T-slot was too close to the edge, he asked if he could back it up on mine - I said that sounds pretty dodgy, sorry! Great views though. Credit: Chris H

Chris C on Point Five Gully. Credit: Sanders

Anthony on Glover's Chimney. Credit: Greg

Teams meeting on the summit after a successful day. Credit: Chris H

Sunset on the tourist path, what a treat! Credit: Greg

Bronwen descending the Red Burn. What more do I need to do to get on UKC's top 10? Credit: Chris H

⭐TRIP AWARD - Rusty Deadman award: Chris H - I'll accept this for leaving my phone in the CIC hut and making Bronwen wait at the foot of the gully while I ran down and back up to get it. Though close runner-up is Bronwen, who borrowed Chris C’s car for the drive to Ben Nevis and clipped his wing mirror reversing out of the hostel. Ed should also get an honourable mention for 'forgetting the trip started on Sunday' and missing the first day of climbing.

⭐TRIP AWARD - Biggest blisters: Sanders - Taking Lucas' crown from the previous year

Saturday 7th - Cragging at Creag Dubh

Feeling like the week could not be topped, conditions had deteriorated a bit: temperatures just above freezing, high winds and windslab settling in the gullies (plus the scary thought of fresh weekend warriors beating us on the approach) we decided on a day of cragging for our last. Bronwen & Sanders did Tree Hee (HS 4a) while Chris H & Chris C did The King Bee VS 5a: Exposed but reassuringly juggy throughout, this was one of my favourite Trad routes ever (even if I did have to bail off the first pitch after unintentionally taking the HVS direct start) - Here's a video of Dave MacLeod free soloing it:

https://youtu.be/KkLM10_i5Sw?si=gsfkyuHqOqBmAT2U

Greg had his heart set on leading a grade III but learned the first rule of winter climbing: "Pick your battles wisely", sometimes it’s best to leave if for another day. They still had a good time trad climbing at Huntley's cave.

⭐ TRIP AWARD - Most energetic & consistently stoked: Chris C was relentlessly psyched, cycling through partners, wearing them out with 3am starts & steep multipitch ice routes before moving on to the next victim. Gaining 4 grade IVs and one grade V 100m+ route ticks with a total of 15 stars in a week is not bad!

⭐TRIP AWARD - The climber's climber award: Anthony, for organising it all, big thanks go to him!! Anthony’s trip highlight was walking off the Ben with that awesome sunset.

Fun was had all around! The 9 hour drive home gave us all plenty of time to dream about more Scottish winter climbing next winter! To see more photos from the trip, have a look at our shared photos folder.

Report written by Chris H