Stuck Ropes and Sunny Dispositions on the Culm Coast

The AMC's trip to the Culm Coast at the end of July 2025 was packed with adventure, exertion and exciting escapes. Temperatures were back to a more palatable range in contrast to the sweaty Pembroke trip 2 weeks prior. A group of about 15 of us descended upon the hamlet of Stibb as our base to sample the area's infamous crags and exquisite coastline.

Will, Kevser and I left Bristol early on Friday to reach the coast path to Cornakey Cliff where we climbed some slabby routes: Stormy Weather (with fantastic jamming) and Wreckers’ Slab. The latter described as one of the ‘longest, most alluring and serious VS climbs in the West Country’. The description certainly matched the experience with the 3 pitches being somewhat run-out on friable rock but in a stunning, exposed position. Taking our time (and some) we topped-out to the coast path in light rain and proceeded to the campsite where other AMC folk had arrived and set up.

The plan for Saturday was thoroughly debated over breakfast given the now damp weather, but we remained optimistic that the rain would pass. Superb planning by our trip secretaries past and present resulted in having a favourable low tide at around 2pm. The majority opted for Gull Rock - Marsland which is accessible 3 hours either side of low tide. Gull Rock epitomises the type of climbing on the Culm Coast with smooth, single pitch climbing on off-vertical culm. Strung along a narrow, jagged base, our gang climbed all the starred classics from HS to E1, requiring small gear and a steady nerve.

With the tide calling time, the group were set to escape via a scramble and high traverse when Alistair and Anthony had the misfortune of stuck ropes. Contemplating the choice of abandoning them or rope ascending to resolve the situation, they chose the latter but risked being cut off by the encroaching water. The rest of the group prepared for the worst and had a plan B - to send down the club's static rope from a stake belay near the coast path. Unfortunately, the lack of phone signal meant a wild goose chase involving lots of walking on the undulating coast path and no need for rescue since our friends managed a safe escape to the car park. With relief for everyone's safe return, we cooled off in the rather cranking waves.

Elsewhere, Donnie, Jake and Sam opted for a surf first thing at Duckpool beach. Lauren and Kevser hiked to Bude. Jake and Sam later made it to Vickerage Cliff. Donnie, having missed out on climbing having gone on a wild goose chase of his own trying to locate us, vowed to get some done on Sunday.

Moods were buoyant around the BBQ on Saturday pm, and with the weather looking fine for Sunday we made plans. Lower Sharpnose was the consensus, with a smaller group headed to Baggy Point (almost) on the way home.

Lower Sharpnose with its wafer-thin fins of rock jutting out into the sea is an imposing and spectacular place to abseil into for any new visitor. Unlike Saturday's climbing at Gull Rock, Sharpnose is known for good rock quality and plentiful protection. Adam might disagree having found quite the opposite leading Xanthoria HVS 5a on the south fin where he describes: “Once on the arête the rock quality and gear is poor. Did a long run out to the top of crumbling holds”.

Harry found better rock quality and gear  leading Hatchet HVS 5a on the south face of the North Fin, deciding it deserved more than its advertised 1 star. An eager-for-rock Donnie and myself followed, the final moves up the chimney providing a very traditional feel to the route. Meanwhile Anthony, then Jake G, led the excellent Lunakhod, a HVS 5a culm classic on the towering middle fin, which features a prominent corner crack line and a final tricky overhang to surmount. James led the teetering neighbouring line Clawtrack HVS 4c.

Back on the north fin, Maciej with gritted determination led the steep E1 5b line of The Smile, but whipped with an echoey yelp after negotiating the pumpy left-slanting break. Regaining his power he finished the route off.

Setting off in the same moment next door, I gingerly made my way up Out of the Blue E2 5b with some helpful beta from Harry, which was appreciated given the bold start to the route. Harry and Donnie followed up before Donnie joined James in seconding The Smile to make an exit.

Just as the tide was bringing our session to a close, Jake and Paul exited via Hatchet, and Harry had the last laugh on The Smirk E1 5b.

Over at Baggy Point, ascents were made by Chris, Sam and Jake on slab classics including Lost Horizon VS 5a and Urizen VS 4c, and Lauren and Kev enjoyed some beach time before it was time to head home.

With the Culm coast's stunning scenery and varied climbing etched firmly in our memories, the AMC trip came to a close as we packed up and headed home, exhausted but exhilarated. The camaraderie, adventure, and sheer fun we had on this trip will stay with us for a long time, and we're already looking forward to the next adventure!