Dartmoor trip report
by Andy H
Finally the rain passed to give way to fine weather and smorgasbord of climbs in the beautiful area of Dartmoor National Park. Staying in Ashburton saw 18 rock jocks well placed for action at The Dewerstone, Haytor and Hound tor. Saturday saw the majority of us head to The Dewerstone covering classics through the grades from Mucky gully (diff) to Vala and climbers club direct (HVS). Many of us had to also give due respect to swooping jackdaws trying to protect their nests As always team Begley made some sterling efforts in higher grade action making Vala look so easy and that he was popping up there for Sunday lunch. Kevin and Rob took in the fantastic central groove (hs) and finished with route b with its fine exposed last move. The trip also saw some new members,which is always great to see. Some of these guys new to trad (sport climbers you know who you are!) did fantastically well with great leading on easier grades and a fine second on Vala (Tim) with Alistair. As for me (Mr V diff) had a fine day of leading with Nick on the low grade classics of Mucky gully, colonels arete and pinnacle butress. I did consider the hs direct variation only to be put off by an unhappy set of jackdaw parents. Indeed team Inger also had experience the same issue as well as three teams sprinting to the top of the pinnacle from 3 different routes for the best belay spots for the last action of the day.
On return to the campsite saw a quick turn around for some full on E1 action on the bar at the dartmoor inn. Having said that the meal was extremely civilised even if some of the steaks weren’t under cooked enough! Personally some of the steaks could have been back on there feet again with a good defibrillator.
The following day weather was kind giving way to views to coast seeing action on the high tors for most. The most noteworthy was the bold three quarter lead of the thruchy sandbag of Aramis on Haytor…… so much for hs 4a more like hvs or good old fastioined vs. Nice one Karl. Alas defeat was conceded totally pumped out only to finally reach the top on top rope. Other classics on Haytor were achieved, step across (nice lead Nick) bulging wall and zig zag Team ‘long haired Dave’ followed on from their fab previous day taking in those Haytor classics, Noting the size 6 monster cam did not come into play this year. Team Inger took early relocation to hound tor perhaps to take in liars dice and suspension flake or perhaps an early bath to get out of the wind. In summary a good time had by all.
